Amigurumi Bumble Bee Free Pattern

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What does amigurumi means?
The word Amigurumi comes from Japanese. The Japanese call handicrafts knitted with crochet and needle as Ami. The Japanese call the toys that are filled with objects such as fibers or cotton as Nuigurumi. The word Amigurumi is derived as a combination of these two words.

Amigurumi knitting techniques are very easy. You can find many handcrafts prepared with these techniques on my site. What is Amigurumi for beginners in Amigurumi handwork? How to knit amigurumi? In this blog, where you can find the answers to the questions with pictures, you will be able to learn about Amigurumi in all details.

I share in this blog are amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi fish, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi parrot, amigurumi giraffe, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunnies, amigurumi cows, amigurumi sheeps, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi snakes, amigurumi mice, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi pumpkins, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi owls, amigurumi cartoon characters, amigurumi twetters, amigurumi caterpillars and more …

Also I’m sharing new amigurumi free patterns every day.
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Bee
I want to give you some informations about this pattern;

Materials
“Bee” is knitted with a 100% cotton, to work on a 3.5 mm needle. We will only need three colors: yellow, white and black (or brown).
Hook with a smaller number than the one indicated on the label (in my case I used a 2.5mm one).
Lap marker.
Synthetic padding.
10mm black safety eyes.
A small trinket (optional).
A piece of black or brown wire (depending on the color chosen for the body and cap).
Instant glue.

Black embroidery thread, sewing needle, wool needle, scissors …
A little blush (optional).

Observations
I have used a cotton yarn to knit “Bee”. You can use another material (wool, acrylic) … whatever you like the most. But keep in mind that the material used greatly influences the final appearance of the amigurumi.
In the same way, the material used also influences the final size of the doll. With my cotton and my crochet hook, “Bee” is about 18cm (not counting the antennae). The greater the thickness of the yarn, the larger the size and vice versa.
Using a crochet hook of a size slightly smaller than indicated on the label helps the stitch to be tightly closed and the filling is not visible. If you knit very tight, it may not be necessary … at your choice.
It is important to fill the doll very well, that it remains firm. I really like “fingering” to shape. Spending some time on this has a lot to do with the final finish.

“Bee” is knitted in a single crochet in a spiral, that is, in continuous turns. That is why it is convenient to use a lap marker. Regarding this: there are many types of markers, but after trying a few I have almost always ended up using a paper clip, because it is one of the ones that leaves the least mark on the fabric.
If you do not have safety eyes, you can embroider the eyes or replace them with buttons, but you should look for them flat and without holes, the kind that are sewn on the back.
“Bee” consists of 9 parts: the body and the head are woven in one piece, arms (x2); legs (x2); wings (they are one piece), head cap and antennae (x2).
About the pattern: the numbers that appear in parentheses at the end of each round indicate the number of stitches with which we must finish that round. The sequence that appears between asterisks **, indicates that the same thing must be repeated until the end of the lap or the number of times indicated. The sequence that appears in parentheses () indicates that such a sequence must be knit in the same stitch.

Read the entire pattern well before starting to knit. This will give you a better general idea of how it goes. I also explain a TIP that may be useful to you.
I recommend that you weave all the small pieces first and leave the body and head for last.

The way to make the “Bee” antennas can be dangerous for a small child, so it is better that you do not give them this amigurumi as a toy. If you solve the antenna issue in another way, then no problem.
Abbreviations
am: magic ring
inc: increase (two single crochets are made at the same point).
ch: chain
dec: decrease (two single crochets are worked together)
sc: low point
pr: slip stitch
mpa: half double crochet (half double crochet)
tr: double crochet (double crochet)
dpa: double double crochet (double double crochet)
V: turn

PATTERN
Legs (x2)
In black or brown.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
Rnd2: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x3) (9)
Round3: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x3) (12)
Round 4: * 3sc, 1 inc * (x3) (15)
Round 5 and Round 6: 1 sc in each sc (15)
Round7: * 1sc, 1 dec * (x3), 6sc (12)
Round 8: 3 dec, 6 sc (9)

Fill out
Round9: 2dism, 5sc (7)
Round 10: 1 sc in each sc (7)
Rnd 11: Join both sides by knitting them together with 3 sc (3)
Close leaving thread to sew to the body.

The legs must be sewn to round 5 of the body (see below), and placed on both sides of the body, so that there are a little “zambas”.

If you don’t like to sew (like I do), there is an alternative to hold the legs: knit them together to the body as we go along. If you choose this option, notice how I explain that you have to join them to the body a little lower, in the pattern of the body and head.

Arms (x2)
In black or brown.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
Rnd2: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x3) (9)
Rv3 to Rv6: sc 1 in each sc (9)

Fill in a little
Round7: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x3) (6)
Round 8 to Round 11: sc 1 in each sc (6)
R12: Join both sides knitting them together with 2 sc (2)
Close leaving thread to sew to the body. The arms are sewn to the body on round 20, on both sides, and symmetrically. You can see below what I explain about fastening them to the body without sewing, if you prefer.

The sting (x1)
In black or brown.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
Rnd2: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x3) (9)
Round3: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x3) (12)
Round 4: 1 sc in each sc (12)

Close leaving thread to sew to the body. It is padded a bit before sewing. It is sewn centered at the rear, between the laps of the first color change.

Antennas (x2)
In yellow color.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
V2: 1 inc. in each sc (12)
Round3: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x6) (18)
R4 to R6: sc 1 in each sc (18)
Round7: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (12)

Fill out
Rnd 8: 6 dec (6)

Close leaving enough thread to finish the antenna later and hold it to the head.
How do we finish the antennas?
It is necessary that you have the cap woven to be able to finish the antennas.
You need to have a fine wire similar to the one I show you in the video below.
You cut the necessary piece to obtain the length of the antenna that you like and you make a kind of hook at one of the ends. You put it inside one of the balls that you already have woven and you adjust it well.

Then you put a few drops of instant glue (cyanoacrylate type) on the wire and roll over it the thread that we had left in reserve at the end of the ball; We put other drops of glue on the thread that we had just wound and we re-roll another layer in the opposite direction, towards the ball. We thread a wool needle and hide the excess thread inside the antenna ball.

We introduce the wire between the points of the cap and take the other end outwards. You have to try to keep it centered.
We repeat with the second ball what we have done with the first … and that’s it.
It may seem a bit confusing, but I hope that with the following video of the step by step you will get a better idea.
At

In white. We are going to weave both wings at the same time.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
V2: 1 inc. in each sc (12)
Round3: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x6) (18)
Round 4: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x6) (24)
Rnd 5 to R8: 1sc in each sc (24)
Round9: * 2sc, 1 dec * (x6) (18)
Round 10: 1 sc in each sc (18)
Round 11: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (12)
Round 12: 1 sc in each sc (12)
Round 13: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x4) (8)
Round 14: 1 sc in each sc (8)
Round 15: * 2 sc, 1 dec * (x2) (6)

Rnd16: 1 sc in each sc (6).
At this moment we have already knitted one of the wings. We continue without cutting the thread.
Rnd17: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x2) (8)
Rnd18: 1 sc in each sc (8)
Rnd19: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x4) (12)
Round 20: 1 sc in each sc (12)
Rnd21: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x6) (18)

Rnd22: 1 sc in each sc (18)
Rnd23: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x6) (24)
R24 to R27: sc 1 in each sc (24)
Rnd28: * 2sc, 1 dec * (x6) (18)
Rnd29: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (12)
R30: 6 dec (6)

Close leaving thread to sew to the body. Hide the thread inside making it come out through the central area. The wings are NOT stuffed. They will be sewn centered on Bee’s back, just below her head. You can sew a small trinket on it as a decoration.

Cap (x1)
In black or brown.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
V2: 1 inc. in each sc (12)
Round3: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x6) (18)
Round 4: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x6) (24)
Round5: * 3sc, 1 inc * (x6) (30)
Round6: * 4sc, 1 inc * (x6) (36)

Round7: * 5sc, 1 inc * (x6) (42)
Round 8: * 6sc, 1 inc * (x6) (48)
Round9: * 7sc, 1 inc * (x6) (54)
Round 10: * 8sc, 1 inc * (x6) (60)
Rnd 11 to R21: 1 sc in each sc (60)

In the next round we are going to do the detail of the “beak” that goes on Bee’s forehead. Note that there is a sequence in parentheses, which means that you must knit it in the same stitch.
Rnd22: 25sc, 3pa, 3pa, (1pa, 1dpa, 1pa), 3pa, 3mpa, 22sc.
Close leaving enough thread to be able to hold it after attaching the antennas to the head with several stitches.

Body and head
They are woven in a single piece, from bottom to top.
We start to knit in black or brown.
R1: Am of 6 sc (6).
V2: 1 inc. in each sc (12)
Round3: * 1sc, 1 inc * (x6) (18)
Round 4: * 2sc, 1 inc * (x6) (24)

Round5: 3sc, 1 inc (30). In this round (V5), the legs must be sewn, placed on both sides of the body, so that there are a little “zambas” (see photo above)
If you don’t like to sew (like I do), there is an alternative to hold the legs: knit them together to the body as we go along. If you choose this option, R5 will look like this: 3sc, 1 inc, 3sc (knitting one leg with them), 1inc, (3sc, 1 inc) (x2), 3sc (knitting the other leg with them), 1 inc, 3sc, 1 inc. (30). Remember that there must be a little “zambas”.

Round6: * 4sc, 1 inc * (x6) (36)
Round7: * 5sc, 1 inc * (x6) (42)
Round 8 and Round 9: 1sc in each stitch (42)
Change to yellow
R10 to R12: sc 1 in each sc (42)
Change to black or brown
Round 13 and Round 14: 1 sc in each sc (42)
Round 15: * 5sc, 1 dec * (x6) (36)

Change to yellow
Round 16: 1 sc in each sc (36)
Rnd17: * 4 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (30)
Rnd18: 1 sc in each sc (30)
Change to black or brown
Rnd19: * 3sc, 1 dec * (x6) (24)

Round 20: 1 sc in each sc (24). In this round (V20) the arms are sewn to the body. If you want to add them without sewing, you should knit them on this round like this: 7sc, 2sc (with one arm), 10sc, 2sc (with the other arm), 3sc (24)
Rnd21: 1 sc in each sc (24)
Change to yellow color. Go filling as it is woven.
Let’s continue with the head. Be careful !!, because between laps 35 and 36 we are going to give the face a bit of shape. You must take this into account when you put your safety eyes. The eyes are placed between laps 37 and 38 with 8 points of separation.

I recommend that before filling the head and knitting the last 5 rows, you embroider the details. It will be easier for you.
Rnd22: 1 sc in each sc (24)
V23: 1 inc. in each sc (48)
R24: * 7sc, 1 inc * (x6) (54)
Rnd25: * 8sc, 1 inc * (x6) (60)
Rnd26: * 9sc, 1 inc * (x6) (66)

Round 27 to round 34: sc 1 in each sc (66)
Round 35: 30sc, 1 dec, (6sc, 1dism) (x2), 18sc (63)
Round36: 29sc, 1 dec, (6sc, 1dism) (x2), 16sc (60)
Rnd 37 to R41: sc 1 in each sc (60)
Rnd42: * 8sc, 1 dec * (x6) (54)
Rnd43: * 7sc, 1 dec * (x6) (48)
Rnd44: * 6sc, 1 dec * (x6) (42)

Rnd45: * 5sc, 1 dec * (x6) (36)
Round 46: * 4 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (30)
Rnd47: * 3sc, 1 dec * (x6) (24)
Rnd48: * 2 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (18)
R49: * 1 sc, 1 dec * (x6) (12)
R50: 6 dec (6)

To close.
You can put a bit of blush on the cheeks (optional)

The bee is ready!

I hope you are encouraged to knit your own bee You can send me photos of your work HERE.

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