Amigurumi Cindy Bear Free Pattern

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What does amigurumi means??
The word Amigurumi comes from Japanese. The Japanese call handicrafts knitted with crochet and needle as Ami. The Japanese call the toys that are filled with objects such as fibers or cotton as Nuigurumi. The word Amigurumi is derived as a combination of these two words.

Amigurumi knitting techniques are very easy. You can find many handcrafts prepared with these techniques on my site. What is Amigurumi for beginners in Amigurumi handwork? How to knit amigurumi? In this blog, where you can find the answers to the questions with pictures, you will be able to learn about Amigurumi in all details.

I share in this blog are amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi fish, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi parrot, amigurumi giraffe, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunnies, amigurumi cows, amigurumi sheeps, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi snakes, amigurumi mice, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi pumpkins, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi owls, amigurumi cartoon characters, amigurumi twetters, amigurumi caterpillars and more …

Also I’m sharing new amigurumi free patterns every day.
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Bear
I want to give you some informations about this pattern;

AUTHOR: Anastasia Pesenzon
Difficulty level: above average
Contains 15 pages of step-by-step process description bear creations and more than 50 photos
The master class can only be used in personal non-commercial purposes. Sale of toys for this MK
allowed.

Necessary materials
Yarn Kamtex “Lotus grass stretch” brown color – 3 skeins
Hook number 2-3
Long sewing needle for sewing parts
Wool for felting white or milky, slightly light
brown wool (for the nose)
Felting needle No. 36

Fine felting needles (no. 40)
Reverse felting needles (for creating pile)
Synthetic filler
Handle wire

Plastic or glass eyes with a diameter of 16 mm
Wooden beads (for the rim)
Light brown and milky felt (small pieces)
Wooden button
Dry pastel
False eyelashes

Symbols
vp – air loop
p. – loop
sbn – stobik without crochet
PSN – half double crochet
ssn – double crochet
approx. – two single crochet stitches, knitted from one loop
ub – two single crochet stitches knitted together
ss – connecting post

Note
All parts are knitted in a spiral, unless otherwise indicated.
All details are knitted inside out, since a significant part of the “furry”
remains exactly on the wrong side (due to the peculiarities of textured yarn)
Use markers (thread, pin, etc.) to mark the beginning
a number of

Write down each row you knit as it is. counting directly on
the product is complicated due to the texture of the yarn
Head (don’t forget to knit inside out)
Dial a chain of 9 vp

1.7 sc, 3 sc in the next loop, on the other hand: 6 sc, 2 sc in
next loop – 18 p
2.prib, 6 sbn, 3 arr, 6 sbn, 2 arr – 24 p
3.1 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 2 – 30 p
4.2 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 2 – 36 p
5.3 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 2 – 42 p
6.4 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (4 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (4 sbn, arr) * 2 – 48 p
7.5 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (5 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (5 sbn, arr) * 2 – 54 p
8-16 (9 rows). 54 PRS
17.5 sc, dec, 6 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc, (5 sc, dec) * 2 – 48 p
18.4 sc, dec, 6 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc, (4 sc, dec) * 2 – 42 p
19.3 sc, dec, 6 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc, (3 sc, dec) * 2 – 36 p
20.2 sc, dec, 6 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc, (2 sc, dec) * 2 – 30 p
21.1 sc, dec, 6 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 3, 6 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 2 – 24 p

22.24 PRS
Fill (medium packing density)

Feet (lower)
Dial a chain of 9 vp
1.7 sc, 3 sc in the next loop, on the other hand: 6 sc, 2 sc in
next loop – 18 p
2.prib, 6 sbn, 3 arr, 6 sbn, 2 arr – 24 p
3.1 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 2 – 30 p
4.2 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 2 – 36 p
5.3 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 2 – 42 p
6.4 sbn, arr, 6 sbn, (4 sbn, arr) * 3, 6 sbn, (4 sbn, arr) * 2 – 48 p
7.for the back walls of the hinges 48 sbn

Do not insert the cardboard so that you can work with felting needles
8-10 (3 rows). 48 sc
11.12 sbn, 18 psn, 18 sbn – 48 p
12.12 sbn, (1 sbn, ub) * 6, 18 sbn – 42 p
13.12 sc, 6 dec, 18 sc – 36 p
14.ub, 4 sc, 9 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec – 24 p
15.24 PRS

  1. (2 sc, dec) * 6 – 18 p
    17-21 (3 rows). 18 PRS

Fill the legs (do not fill very tightly at once – it will be difficult to roll
wool)
Torso
1.6 sc in the ring
2.6 arr – 12 p

  1. (1 sbn, arr) * 6 – 18 p
  2. (2 sc, arr) * 6 – 24 p
  3. (3 sbn, arr) * 6 – 30p
  4. (4 sbn, arr) * 6 – 36 p
  5. (5 sc, arr) * 6 – 42 p
  6. (6 sc, arr) * 6 – 48 p
  7. (7 sc, arr) * 6 – 54 p
    10-17 (8 rows). 54 PRS
    18.21 SBN, 6 UB, 21 SBN – 48 p
    19.15 sbn, (1 sbn, ub) * 6, 15 sbn – 42 p
    20.12 sbn, (1 sbn, ub) * 6, 12 sbn – 36 p
    21-22. 36 PRS
  8. (4 sbn, ub) * 6 – 30 p
    24.30 sbn
  9. (3 sbn, ub) * 6 – 24 p
    Stuff the torso tightly with filler. Insert wire for upper
    legs between 23 and 24 row
  10. (2 sc, dec) * 6 – 18 p
    27-28. 18 PRS
    Leave a long thread for sewing on the head
    Feet (upper)
    1.6 sc in the ring
    2.6 arr – 12 p
  11. (1 sbn, arr) * 6 – 18 p
  12. (2 sc, arr) * 6 – 24 p
    5-6. 24 sc
  13. (6 PRS, UB) * 3 – 21 p
    8.21 PRS
  14. (5 PRS, UB) * 3 – 18 p

10-14 (5 rows). 18 PRS

  1. (4 PRS, UB) * 3 – 15 p
    16-19 (4 rows). 15 PRS

    Fill lightly, put on wire and sew to the body

Ears
Dial a chain of 5 vp
1.3 sc, 3 sc in the next loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, 2 sc in
next loop – 10 p

  1. arr, 2 sbn, 3 arr, 2 sbn, 2 arr – 16 p
    3.1 sbn, arr, 2 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 3, 2 sbn, (1 sbn, arr) * 2 – 22 p
    4.2 sbn, arr, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 3, 2 sbn, (2 sbn, arr) * 2 – 28 p
    5.3 sbn, arr, 2 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 3, 2 sbn, (3 sbn, arr) * 2 – 34 p
    Do not fill the ears, tie two sides through and through – 17 PRS

Cut two pieces out of soft felt in the shape of the inner part of the ears and
sew with sewing thread to match the yarn (sew through to make an eyelet
thinner and “press in” felt)

Muzzle

  • we roll the wool of a milky (white) color in the shape of an oval to the head
  • we play two identical balls
  • we roll them to the muzzle and seal them quite strongly with a needle
    (there should be no loose elements)
  • on top we roll the bridge of the nose
  • and then roll the ball at the bottom of the muzzle (future mouth)
  • we begin to tighten: we take a button in four holes,
    insert the needle into one hole, remove it in the outer corner of the eye, insert it into

    the inner corner of the eye, we bring it out through the second hole, we tighten it tightly
    thread and fix it with a strong knot. We repeat the procedure for the second
    eyes, but already using other holes in the button. Eyes between themselves are not
    pull together. You can additionally fix the knots with a drop of glue
  • we hide the button in the hole of the head
  • glue the eyes (diameter 16 mm)
  • we roll the wool along the contour of the eye (quite a lot of wool), while
    closing eyes completely
  • gradually open the eyes with a needle from the center, pulling off the wool tightly
    for the formation of the century
  • repeat the procedure for the second eye
  • next to the cheeks we roll two small balls (the second level
    cheeks) and smooth out all the transitions between the details using
    overlaying wool on top
  • felting the nose
  • we make a notch in the spout with a needle so that it turns out a little like
    heart
  • we grind the face with reverse needles (insert the needle superficially and
    as close as possible to the previous puncture site). It will turn out thick and
    long pile. Cut this pile short with small scissors.
  • and don’t forget about the legs

Assembling the toy
Sew the lower legs in such a way that the body and legs have
a rather large contact area so that the bear does not fall over.
Place the upper legs nicely in front

Tinting
Toning is done with dry brown pastel, rubbed
sandpaper and brush applied
We look at the photo

We also tint the contours of the inner part of the ear.

The main work has been done. It remains to decorate Lukesha
To create the headband, I used wire, wooden beads
saturated color, felt, wooden button and satin ribbon for
fixing the bezel at the back

  • we string the beads on the wire, having previously measured the necessary
    the length
  • cut out two details from felt (as in the photo)
  • round corners
  • clamp a large piece in the middle
  • we fix it with a small detail (strip)
  • fasten the headband with beads with a satin ribbon

Sew a bow to the rim, decorate with a wooden button

We glue Lukesha long eyelashes. Ready!

© The master class can only be used in personal non-commercial purposes. Sale of toys for this MK
allowed. The author’s name is WELCOME Questions about this MC can be asked at:
https://vk.com/nastyapam
And also go to my VKontakte group:
https://vk.com/funnypompom
Best regards, Anastasia Pesenzon

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