#amigurumi #freepattern #freepatternamigurumi #crochettoppattern #crochet #crochetpattern #amigurumipenguin #crochetpenguin
What does amigurumi means?
The word Amigurumi comes from Japanese. The Japanese call handicrafts knitted with crochet and needle as Ami. The Japanese call the toys that are filled with objects such as fibers or cotton as Nuigurumi. The word Amigurumi is derived as a combination of these two words.
Amigurumi knitting techniques are very easy. You can find many handcrafts prepared with these techniques on my site. What is Amigurumi for beginners in Amigurumi handwork? How to knit amigurumi? In this blog, where you can find the answers to the questions with pictures, you will be able to learn about Amigurumi in all details.
I share in this blog are amigurumi cats, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi fish, amigurumi unicorn, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi parrot, amigurumi giraffe, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi bunnies, amigurumi cows, amigurumi sheeps, amigurumi bees, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi snakes, amigurumi mice, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi pumpkins, amigurumi pandas, amigurumi owls, amigurumi cartoon characters, amigurumi twetters, amigurumi caterpillars and more …
Also I’m sharing new amigurumi free patterns every day.
Todays daily new amigurumi free crochet pattern is Penguin
I want to give you some informations about this pattern;
Good day!
My name is Ira, and this is my master class on creating a pin
crochet gvinchik. Thank you very much for choosing to knit this game. rushka with me.
The description does not include knitting lessons, so you must not only know how to hold a hook in your hands, but also be able to:
- dial a chain of air loops;
- knit single crochet stitches, as well as their combinations,
such as increases and decreases; - make connecting posts.
If you already know how to do all this, great! Then cook the necessary required materials.
List of materials and tools
- yarn of three colors – for the body, for the tummy, for the beak and
pok. I am using YarnArt Jeans color 55 (blue) for the body,
62 (ultra white) for the tummy and 35 (yellow) for the beak and legs.
I want to draw your attention to the fact that the yarn for the body and tummy
must be of the same thickness; - crochet hook for your yarn. I am using # 2;
- eyes on a secure mount of the required diameter. Have
me 8 mm; - holofiber;
- needle for sewing on parts;
- scissors;
- if necessary, a floss for embroidery of eyebrows and eyelashes.

Have you prepared everything you need? Then charge with good
mood, prepare your favorite drink, make yourself comfortable
her and start creating.
If in the process of knitting you have any questions, please
I will answer them with pleasure. To do this, write to the profile direct
@grizzly_bear_toys on instagram.
Well, let’s start?
Symbols
VP – air loop;
sbn – single crochet;
pr – an increase from single crochet;
ub – decrease of single crochet;
ss – connecting column.
When knitting the front of the body, you will see the letters G and B.
They mean what color and how many loops you need to knit.
For example, the phrase (pr, 5 sbn) G, 6B sbn, 3G sbn means that you need
knit (increase, 5 single crochet) in blue,
then 6 columns without a crochet in White, 3 columns without
kid in blue. The rest of the abbreviations are deciphered
the same way.
The numbers at the end of each row indicate how many loops should
turn out at the end of knitting it.
Beak
Knitted with a yellow thread.
Cast on 5 VP and continue knitting into the second loop from the hook.
1 row: pr, 2 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, 3 sc in reverse
side of the chain
10 p
2nd row: 10 sbn 10 p
3rd row: 2 pr, 2 sbn, 3 pr, 2sbn, pr 16 p
4 row: 1 sbn, pr, 7sbn, pr, 6 sbn 18 p
5 row: 2 sc, 2 ave, 6 sc, 2 ave, 6 sc 22 p
6 row: 3 sc, 2 ave, 3 sc, 2 ave, 3 sc, 2 ave, 7 sc 29 p
7 row: 4 PRS, 2 PR, 5 PRS, PR, 1 PRS, PR, 4 PRS, 2 PR, 8 PRS 34 p

Fasten and cut the thread, leaving a long end to secure sewing.
Paws
Each paw consists of two parts, that is, everything needs to be tied four details. Knit with a yellow thread.
Dial 7 VP and continue knitting in the second from the hook pet- liu. Start each subsequent row with 1 VP rise.
1 row: pr, 4 sbn, pr 8 p
2nd row: pr, 6 sbn, pr 10 p
3-4 rows (2 rows): 10 sb 10 p
5 row: pr, 8 sbn, pr 12 p
6-9 rows (4 rows): 12 sbn 12 p
Do not cut the thread. Next, tie the part as follows:
1 VP, 9 SBN along the side, 2 SBN in the first loop of the first row,
4 sbn, 2 sbn in the last loop of the first row, 9 sbn along the second side
howling part, 2 sbn in the first loop of the last row, 9 sbn, ss in vp in
the beginning of the strapping row. There should be 39 stitches in total.
This number should be the same when tying all four
parts to make it easier to connect in the future
elements.

On the left is the detail before tying, right after.
Connect the parts in pairs with each other in any way convenient for
you way.
Crochet connection option
When connecting parts in this way, you need to arrange
both parts with the wrong side in, insert the hook from above
down and grab the inner half loop of one part, then so
insert the hook and grab the inner half-loop with the second de-
hoist, then pull the working thread through both half-loops. At
this working thread should be on the inside of the part
lei. One loop remains on the hook. Further in the same way
grab the inner half-loops of the parts, on the hook it turns out
three loops, then pull the working thread through all three loops. On the the hook again has one loop. Repeat these steps until
end of the row. Finish knitting with a connecting post in
the first loop of the row.
Parts connection diagram crochet. Using this way between parts you get a neat pigtail.

Important! When connecting parts in this way, you need to
so that the first half loop of the same de-
hoist. Also, you should make the connection only for the internal
half loops.

Do not fill in details. The ends are not you hide.
Wings
Each wing also consists of two parts, i.e. all you need to connect
identify four parts. Knit with a thread of the main color.
Cast on 5 VP and continue knitting into the second loop from the hook.
Start each subsequent row with 1 VP rise.
1 row: pr, 2 sbn, pr 6 p
2nd row: pr, 4 sbn, pr 8 p
3 row: pr, 6 sbn, pr 10 p
4th row: 10 sbn 10 p
5 row: pr, 8 sbn, pr 12 p
6-10 p: poisons (5 rows): 12 sbn 12 p
11 row: ub, 8 sbn, ub 10 p
12 row: ub, 6 sbn, ub 8 p
13 row: ub, 4 sbn, ub 6 p
14 row: ub, 2 sbn, ub 4 p
15 row: 2 ub 2 p
16 row: ub 1 p

Do not cut the thread. Tie the part as follows:
1 VP, 16 SBN along the side, 2 SBN in the first loop of the first row-
yes, 2 sc, 2 sc in the last loop of the first row, 16 sc in the second
side part, 1 sbn, ss in VP at the beginning of the strapping row. Total should
get 37 loops.
This number should be the same when tying all four
details.
Connect the parts in pairs with each other in any way convenient for
you way.
Do not fill in details. The ends are not you hide.
To make the wings concave, when connecting de-
hoists need:
- tighten the working thread tighter;
- use a smaller hook;
- on each side of one part, grab two half-loops
whether, and not one. It turns out that you are knitting two loops together.
Tail
The tail consists of two parts. Knit with a thread of the main color.
Cast on 5 VP and continue knitting into the second loop from the hook.
Start each subsequent row with 1 VP rise.
1 row: pr, 2 sbn, pr 6 p
2nd row: pr, 4 sbn, pr 8 p
3 row: pr, 6 sbn, pr 10 p
4th row: 10 sbn 10 p
5 row: pr, 8 sbn, pr 12 p
6 row: 12 sbn 12 p
7 row: pr, 10 sbn, pr 14 p
8 row: 14 sbn 14 p
Do not fill in details. The ends are not you hide.
Do not cut the thread, but continue tying the part:
1 VP, 8 SBN along the side, 2 SBN in the first loop of the first row,
2 sbn, 2 sbn in the last loop of the first row, 8 sbn along the second side
howling part. There should be 22 loops in total.
This number should be the same when tying both parts
lei. Connect the parts together in any convenient way.
In this case, the connection of parts along the last row is not performed
necessary. It turns out a kind of “hat”.

front part
Cast on 20 VP in the main color and continue knitting in the second
from the hook to the loop. Start each subsequent row with 1 VP rise.
1 row: pr, 17 sbn, pr 21 p
2nd row: pr, 19 sbn, pr 23 p
3 row: pr, 21 sbn, pr 25 p
4 row: pr, 23 sbn, pr 27 p
Next, introduce a white thread.
Important! I advise you to knit with a thread of the main color from two balls
(or use different ends of the same ball) to avoid
broaches on the tummy.
5 row: (pr, 5 sc) G, 6B sc, 3G sc, 6B sc,
(5 sbn, pr) G
29 p
6 row: (pr, 5 sbn) G, 8B sbn, 1G sbn, 8B sbn,
(5 sbn, pr) G
31 p
7 row: 6G sbn, 19B sbn, 6G sbn 31 p
8 row: 5G sbn, 21B sbn, 5G sbn 31 p
9-13 rows (5 rows): 4G sbn, 23B sbn, 4G sbn 31 p
14 row: (pr, 3 sbn) G, 23B sbn, (3 sbn, pr) G 33 p
15-16 rows (2 rows): 5G sbn, 23B sbn, 5G sbn 33 p
17 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 23B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 35 p
18-19 rows (2 rows): 6G sbn, 23B sbn, 6G sbn 35 p
20 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 25B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 37 p
21 row: 6G sbn, 25B sbn, 6G sbn 37 p
22 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 27B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 39 p
23 row: 6G sbn, 27B sbn, 6G sbn 39 p
24 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 29B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 41 p
25 row: 6G sbn, 29B sbn, 6G sbn 41 p
26 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 31B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 43 p
27 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 33B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 45 p
28 row: 6G sbn, 33B sbn, 6G sbn 45 p
29 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 35B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 47 p
30 row: 6G sbn, 35B sbn, 6G sbn 47 p
31 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 37B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 49 p
32 row: 6G sbn, 37B sbn, 6G sbn 49 p
33 row: (pr, 4 sbn) G, 39B sbn, (4 sbn, pr) G 51 p
34-37 rows (4 rows): 6G sbn, 39B sbn, 6G sbn 51 p
38 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 37B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 49 p
39 row: 6G sbn, 37B sbn, 6G sbn 49 p
40 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 35B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 47 p
41 row: 6G sbn, 35B sbn, 6G sbn 47 p
42 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 33B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 45 p
43 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 31B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 43 p
44 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 29B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 41 p
In the next row, after knitting, cut off the white thread and
fix.
45 row: (ub, 5 sbn) G, 27B sbn, (5 sbn, ub) G 39 p
The remaining rows are knitted only in the main color.
46 row: 2 ub, 31, 2 ub 35 p
47 row: 2 ub, 27, 2 ub 31 p
48 row: 2 ub, 23, 2 ub 27 p
49 row: 2 ub, 19, 2 ub 23 p
If you knit yarn of the same thickness,
then the part will be flat. If the yarn was thin for the tummy-
she (thicker), then the tummy will be pulled (stretched).

Do not cut the thread, but continue tying the part:
1 VP, 49 sbn along the side, 2 sbn in the first loop of the upper
row, 17 sbn, 2 sbn in the last loop of the top row, 49 sbn along
second side part, 2 sc in the first loop of the bottom row, 22 sc,
ss in vp at the beginning of the strapping row.
There should be 143 stitches in total. Fasten and cut the thread.
Further, if you do not like how the “body” border looks
tummy-body “, you can make a strapping. To do this, you need to
drink a working thread at the top of the middle sb of the 6th row (see photo) and
with the help of connecting posts, tie the tummy along the contour.
You can use a thread of both the main color and the color of vivid
tick. I used two-fold white thread.

Workplace attachment point ty for tying the tummy over contour.

Insert safe eyes (I have at the level of the 11th row,
between the eyes about 8 loops), sew the beak. Optional
you can embroider eyebrows and eyelashes.
Workplace attachment point
ty for tying the tummy over
contour.
In the process of sewing on the beak
the part needs to be stuffed a little.

Back
Knit with a thread of the main color.
Cast on 20 VP and continue knitting into the second loop from the hook.
Start each subsequent row with 1 VP rise.
1 row: pr, 17 sbn, pr 21 p
2nd row: pr, 19 sbn, pr 23 p
3 row: pr, 21 sbn, pr 25 p
4 row: pr, 23 sbn, pr 27 p
5 row: pr, 25 sbn, pr 29 p
6 row: pr, 27 sbn, pr 31 p
7-13 rows (7 rows): 31 sbn 31 p
14 row: pr, 29 sbn, pr 33 p
15-16 rows (2 rows): 33 sc 33 p
17 row: pr, 31 sbn, pr 35 p
18-19 rows (2 rows): 35 sb 35 p
20 row: pr, 33 sbn, pr 37 p
21 row: 37 sbn 37 p
22 row: pr, 35 sbn, pr 39 p
23 row: 39 sbn 39 p
24 row: pr, 37sbn, pr 41 p
25 row: 41 sbn 41 p
26 row: pr, 39 sbn, pr 43 p
27 row: pr, 41 sbn, pr 45 p
28 row: 45 sbn 45 p
29 row: pr, 43 sbn, pr 47 p
30 row: 47 sbn 47 p
31 row: pr, 45 sbn, pr 49 p
32 row: 49 sbn 49 p
33 row: pr, 47 sbn, pr 51 p
34-37 rows (4 rows): 51 sb 51 p
38 row: ub, 47 sbn, ub 49 p
39 row: 49 sc 49 p
40 row: ub, 45 sbn, ub 47 p
41 row: 47 sbn 47 p
42 row: ub, 43 sbn, ub 45 p
43 row: ub, 41 sbn, ub 43 p
44 row: ub, 39 sbn, ub 41 p
45 row: ub, 37sc, ub 39 p
46 row: 2 ub, 31, 2 ub 35 p
47 row: 2 ub, 27, 2 ub 31 p
48 row: 2 ub, 23, 2 ub 27 p
49 row: 2 ub, 19, 2 ub 23 p
Do not cut the thread, but continue tying the part:
1 VP, 49 sbn along the side, 2 sbn in the first loop of the upper
row, 17 sbn, 2 sbn in the last loop of the top row, 49 sbn along
second side part, 2 sc in the first loop of the bottom row, 22 sc,
ss in vp at the beginning of the strapping row. There should be 143 stitches in total.
Do not cut the thread.
The number of loops when tying the front and back must be
but be the same.
Next, knit depending on the desired thickness of the toy
5-6 rows. Please note that the thickness of the toy after filling has increased
read. For circular knitting, do not lift the loop.

Connect the front and back in any way convenient for you, evenly filling the toy with filler.
Assembling the toy
So, at this stage we have:
- body of a penguin;
- a pair of wings;
- a pair of legs;
- ponytail.

As a rule, I sew all the details “by eye”. Orient-
whichever you like. Pin the wings on the sides of the calf and see
Rite as you like best. My wings are sewn on
the level of the 20th row of the body.
The tail is sewn in the center of the back at 34 rows, with
this part must be slightly stuffed. The height of the sewn needles
the stick takes 8-9 rows.
The legs are sewn to the lower body of the toy.

That’s it! Now you are the happy owner of a soft penguin. Thank you for being with me.

Earnest request! When publishing photos of the finished game
rushki on social networks mark me as an author
@Grizzly_Bear_toys. It’s a trifle for you, but I’m pleased .
Distribution of this description free of charge
votstvuetsya, and the sale is strictly prohibited !!!
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